Easter is time for Roast Chicken

Easter is here again. And so for the benefit of our readers in many lands we thought we’d come up with an all-time Sunday favourite: Roast Chicken. Except we are going to trim it round with a few extras to make your family’s day really special. And just to get things right, all our recipes come with the help of top BBC chefs who will show you how easy it can be to turn out some really good food.

Background Music (Cocktails/Starter) :You won’t do better than The Gothic Voices’ version of A Feather on the Breath of God by Hildegard of Bingen Great sacred/ medieval/spring vibe.

Cocktail If you can’t stand yet another gin and tonic, and you think Pimms is a bit rich, we recommend this Hugo Spritz from Good Food as a possible runner

Hugo Spritz Cocktail Recipe

Starter We will go with this tasty pea and mint soup recipe from Mark Sargeant. Its got that lovely green spring vibe but without filling you up

Pea and mint soup recipe – BBC Food

Background Music (Main Course): St Matthew Passion by JS Bach. Proper Easter-y and all that! We hand the choice of version over to Classical Music as they probably know what they’re talking about.

Bach St Matthew Passion: guide and best recordings – Classical Music

Main Course There are so many variations of the central theme of roast chicken that all we could do was to stick a finger in the wind and recommend this version by Simon Hopkinson

Perfect roast chicken dinner recipe – BBC Food

Wines We’ll go with this Mâcon Villages Les Pierres Blanches from Majestic. But really any good supermarket white burgundy will do, especially if you have a lot of thirsty diners and prize quantity over quality.

Mâcon-Villages Blanc ‘Les Pierres Blanches’ 2018 Cave de Lugny – Majestic Wine

Dessert what’s more English than apple crumble? And the beauty of it is, it’ll go with custard or ice cream!

Easy apple crumble recipe – BBC Food

Dessert Wine We’ll recommend that old favourite Muscat de Beaumes de Venise. Waitrose have this excellent half bottle which will still stretch to six or so normal guests

Muscat de Beaumes de Venise 1348 | Waitrose & Partners

Port When it comes to the word port everyone means Ruby or thinks they do. To be fair there are thousands of good rubies out there at incredibly good prices. So why not stick your neck out and just for once serve up this tawn from Sainsurys If nothing else it’l get them talking -the ones who are still awake

https://www.sainsburys.co.uk/gol-ui/product/sainsburys-tawny-port-75cl?

Cheeses Naturally we’ve got a cheddar and a stilton, both from Marks, as you’d expect nothing less. But just to be daring can we alsoslip in this Brighton Blue from our own county of Sussex?

5 Year Old Cornish Cruncher Vintage Cheddar | M&S

Mature Blue Stilton | M&S

Brighton Blue Cheese – High Weald Dairy

Music (Post prandial)After the earlier high moral tone we thought we’d try something a little more rela,xing. Maye we suggest a couple from Frank himself? What is more Sinatra-moody than One for my baby(and one more for the road)? Or In the Wee small hours of the morning? Nat King Cole’s Stardust or Ella Fitzgerald’s Angel eyes often play well to the après-dejeuner crowd. But given our Hispanic connections we might offer Roberto Goyeneche’s version of Ventanita florida finishing off with Oblivion by the late great Astor Piazzolla.

Well there’s our Easter menu for this fateful year of 2026. We look forward to presenting the Christmas one. If we are all still here and there is any food left in the shops.

#food #wine #cheese #roast chicken #cocktails #easter #music

Friday Night: Graves de Côte, Brighton

Photo by Bernyce Hollingworth on Pexels.com

We are acquainted with more than one person who refuses to dine in chain restaurants. Being both of limited means and unlimited hunger after a hard day of investigative journalism, my photographer and I decided to stake our all on Côte Brasserie Church Street Brighton. [1] Our delight was not only in the food, which was excellent, not the service (first rate), but was also owed to the fact that it enabled your correspondent to wax lyrical about a favourite subject: the clarets of the Graves region, entirely apposite to a blog rooted in the tastes and preoccupations of the eighteenth-century Whigs.

We started by sharing mixed starters of Cheesy French Onion Fougasse and the Charcuterie of truffle saucisson, savoie ham, celeriac remoulade and pan blanc. Being between the lunch and dinner rushes the service was fast and exceedingly friendly, with time to appreciate the excellent ambience and extreme cleanliness of our surroundings. For her main, my companion chose the Half Roast Chicken which turned outto have a delicious buttery flavour and light crumbling texture which lifted it significantly above the standards found in so many pubs and restaurants. Your correspondent chose an old favourite: a 10 oz ribeye. Cooked to medium rare, it was tender, delicious and utterly reflective of the subtle herbs which always seem to lift a French steak above a plain English one. Readers will be gratified to learn that Cote offered unlimited fries, of which generous offer we could not take full advantage, being both on diets. But I was allowed a side of delicious green and juicy broccoli, always the tastiest of fresh vegetables.

To drink, my companion chose a glass of Côte’s own grenache rosé. But for myself this was a chance to sample (more than one) glass of red Graves AOC. For your correspondent, Bordeaux has always our choice of French region: and Graves our choice of Bordeaux It’s the cradle of Bordeaux’s wine trade, the source of the first great châteaux, and still the place where you can taste the region’s history without paying Médoc grand cru prices. Graves is Claret in its original, flinty register: born from river‑washed gravel that soaks up the sun by day and bleeds it back into the vines by night, giving the wines that poised mix of ripeness, freshness, and a faint smoky edge. We frankly and unashamedly admit that the wine’s true strength and depth needs a large brimming glass to be fully appreciated, a user requirement fully satisfied by the handy 250 ml beakers on ready offer. Steak connaisseurs will be unsurprised to learn that it made the perfect partner to my dish.

Diets being diets, there was sadly no opportunity to sample the varied dessert menu beyond the usual coffee. Except that there is one tradition this writer will not let die: the custom of the dessert wine. Fortunately, this need was more than adequately met by their white Domaine de Barrubio Muscat, a deliciously cool, slightly sweet addition. An innovation entirely preferable to stuffing your face with endless ice creams or lashings of apple crumble and custard; a vice which we had practiced all too often in establishments of all sorts before the advent of our current Virtue.

If you like good food and are not a snob, then we utterly recommend this restaurant and its cheerful and ever-helpful staff

Côte Brighton 115-116 Church Street Brighton BN1 1UD

[1]https://www.bing.com/alink/link?url=https%3a%2f%2fwww.cote.co.uk%2frestaurant%2fbrighton&source=serp-local&h=0amR%2byvWX27TKGXbQR4eJV9uEy

LSS has no personal, business or financial connection whatsoever with Côte nor any of its employees

food #drink #wine #restaurant #brighton

Friday Night with an Opera

What’s your favourite opera? Dido and Aeneas? The Marriage of Figaro? La Traviata? Tosca? Our answer is: all of the above, and many more. But our real honest-to- God favourite is a drink, gentle readers, not a load of people chorusing on top of a windy hill in Sussex, or close to a handy pub in Covent Garden. That’s right, you guessed that today we are going to present the Opera, one of the tastiest, easiest-to-make homages to a great art form that we know. So with due reverence to the handy Hamlyn Ultimate Cocktail Book-(23 years old and still a go-to)-here is our (adapted)delicious recipe

Take 5 of your best ice cubes and drop ‘em in a shaker. Add one measure of Dubonnet, one half measure of Curaçao, and two measures of your best London dry gin. Put on the overture to Carmen and shake for the first three bars. Pour to a chilled cocktail glass, sin hielo, and decorate with a sprig of orange rind. This will get you through the longest passages of difficult East European composers ,with the added advantage that it’s easy to sneak in to your box, provided the ushers are not looking.

So now imagine you are in your box in the Royal Opera House with your feet up sipping your drink as Bryn Terfel and the whole chorus belt out that sublime, that ultimate, that immense Te deum from Tosca.. Is your cocktail going to last right through? Go on, it’s a night out, and you’re going large.-Slip a tenner to the usher and send him off for another of the same! Tosca, mi fai dimenticare Iddio !

#opera #cocktail #puccini #drinks

Friday Night: Brandy Alexander

The first cocktail we ever saw prepared-or drunk- was almost exactly fifty years ago in a pub in West London where we worked for a summer job. The drink was lovingly prepared by one of the barpersons, a kindly soul, for her daughter who was visiting the pub on her birthday. Back then alcohol came in two forms-beer, and lager. We knew some middle class folk drank wine-but what was this curiously complicated concoction, assembled with such reverence? And which the daughter drank with due appreciation, we are happy to report.

The drink in question was the Brandy Alexander, a smooth creamy cocktail with a hidden kick. To make it, add a number of ice cubes to your shaker, one measure of brandy (yes, the cheap stuff from Malaga duty free will do fine), one of crême de cacao and, for la pièce de résistance, two of double cream. Shake vigorously and pour to an open martini-style glass. A sprinkle of nutmeg makes a good decoration, but not too much, we always say.

The original Alexander cocktail was gin-based, dating back to the early 20th century. The Brandy Alexander emerged later, gaining popularity during Prohibition when brandy was more palatable than bathtub gin The memory of those days is preserved in the gin based Alexander No 2 and there are variations based on spirits such as Tequila, Rum or Bourbon

Since that long ago summer, our knowledge of cocktails has blossomed and grown. Obviously- or we could not write this column. But we will always remember the care with which this kind but not too wealthy woman, made a special treat for her daughter. Look for kindness where you can find it, gentle readers. Even in cocktails.

#brandy alexander #cocktails #friday night #entertaining #drinks

–

Food: is it quite as good as you thought?

Food is everywhere these days. Shelves groan with glossy cookbooks, restaurants and gastropubs queue up for tax breaks, and the airwaves are thick with chirpy kitchen‑dwellers—some dropping their aitches with theatrical enthusiasm, others sounding as if they’ve just strolled out of a rowing club bar. Everywhere you look, there’s another beaming evangelist waving a saucepan and assuring us that their latest ‘blend’ is nothing short of a revelation. One could be forgiven for thinking that food itself has become a national moral project, a jolly good thing in which we are all expected to take an interest.

However the readers of our little blog being a thoughtful lot, we thought we’d put up two stories which might provide a little counter-balance to the general merriment. The first from the indefatigable Kat Lay of the Guardian (clearly she knows about more than just antibiotics) does not suggest food is bad per se. But it does suggest that being extremely careful about what you eat, and who is selling to you might be a very good idea[1] Her headline tells you exactly what we mean: Ultra-processed foods should be treated more like cigarettes than food – study

“OK, OK”. you say, “but wot I eat is my choice, innit, guvnor? If I ain’t doin’ no one else no ‘arm, wosser problem?” Well according to Nature Briefing, Eating Well is about more than your health, this might be:

Debates over what to eat — more protein, say, or less ultra-processed food — often neglect any mention of how our food systems affect the biosphere that keeps us alive. But nutrition doesn’t exist in a vacuum, notes Earth-systems scientist Johan Rockström. He co-chaired the latest update to the Planetary Health Diet, which aims to optimize human health globally and reduce environmental and social harms. It notes that “global greenhouse-gas emissions could be cut by 20% by 2050 by eating healthily, reducing food waste and adopting sustainable production practices”, writes Rockström. “If diets remain unchanged, however, emissions will increase by 33%.”Nature | 7 min read
Reference: The EAT-Lancet Commission on healthy, sustainable, and just food systems report

We want humanity to survive, really we do. If you went extinct there would be no one to man the check out tills at supermarkets and we’d have to use those ghastly check-out-yourself tills that are so slow, complicated and inconvenient. Yeah food is alright, sometimes. But as the old saying goes-be careful what you wish for.

[1]https://www.theguardian.com/global-development/2026/feb/03/public-health-ultra-processed-foods-regulation-cigarettes-addiction-nutrition

#food #nutrition #climate change #obesity #health #fat #protein #fast food #processed food

Friday Night: How about a Glass of Sherry?

Photo by Antonio Garcia Prats on Pexels.com

Southwest Spain, the Costa de la Luz, that tucked-away corner where the Atlantic meets the mouth of the Guadalquivir is off the beaten track as far as many tourists are concerned. Its empty marshes and estuaries, flat low farmlands and ancient cities as about as far as one can imagine from the concrete canyons of the Costa del Sol, Benidorm and all those tattoos. Which is odd because this region was civilised for thousands of years while all the beer and paella joints were tiny fishing hamlets. Famous too, for many things. And one of them is Sherry wine to which we devote today’s little blog

Sherry from the D.O. Jerez–Xérès–Sherry spans a small but wildly expressive family of wines, all born in the “Sherry Triangle” of Jerez, Sanlúcar, and El Puerto. Fino is the palest and driest: crisp, saline, aged under flor, tasting of almonds and sea‑spray—drink it fridge‑cold with olives, almonds, jamón, or seafood. Manzanilla, made only in Sanlúcar, is even more briny and delicate, perfect with fried fish or prawns. Amontillado begins life under flor but finishes oxidatively, giving a haunting mix of hazelnut, caramel, and dried herbs; serve cool with artichokes, consommé, or mushrooms. Oloroso is fully oxidative—rich, nutty, sometimes leathery—best slightly cool with game, stews, or hard cheeses. Palo Cortado sits mysteriously between Amontillado and Oloroso: elegant, aromatic, and complex, a contemplative wine for roasted meats or simply a quiet evening. Sweet styles—PX and Moscatel—are luscious, raisiny, and dessert‑like, wonderful with blue cheese or poured over ice cream But we found this excellent site called the Sherry Region [1] will tell you everything you want to know, and for which we have no room here, including history, types of wine and lots, lots more about this fascinating part of Iberia.

No trip to the Sherry Country would be complete without a trip around one of the fascinating Bodegas belonging one of the different companies These are not tiny lodges, but large production facilities which face each other across the streets like the premises old car companies did in Birmingham in the 1970s. We dare not advertise: but the one which we often choose offers wine trains, guided tours and huge vaults with ancient barrels containing the chalked autographs of some of the most famous people who have ever lived in the last 126 years. Yes they liked a drop of this stuff too. And you will find out why when you attends the generous tasting at the end, which can become convivial indeed. We will close with this warning: don’t go to the one in the morning, or that’s the rest of the day written off.

[1] Sherry Region | El Marco de Jerez | Sherry Wines Origin – Sherry Wines

#Spain #Jerez de la Frontera #Cadiz #sherry #wine #Atlantic #tourism

Two New Year Cocktails from 2020: we can’t improve on them

December 31 2020: it seems such a long time ago! It was the year Joe Biden had defeated Donald Trump to win the Presidency of the United States. The year a COVID-19 ravaged world was waiting for the first vaccines. And our already-growing pool of loyal readers was was waiting in addition for our advice about what to do for cocktails on what was going to be a rather restricted New Years Eve festival. And here is what we wrote in a piece titled Two Champagne Cocktails for New Year-Even if You’re Staying In:

Well, New Years Eve has always been a traditional time for fun and japes and conga lines-and lots and lots of champagne. Sadly, old Mr Covid-19 is going to crimp that this year, and by more than a little! But, do not despair, good reader. We at LSS have a couple of delicious champagne cocktail recipes for you to try as the big countdown to the glorious hour begins.

French ’75

Supposedly named after a powerful piece of Gallic field artillery, this is a fun sharpener with quite a slug of our favourite spirit-gin. The lemon and caster will give it the feel of a sparkling version of that old LSS favourite Between the Sheets. So, adapted from from Hamlyn‘s The Ultimate Cocktail Book:

Half fill a tall glass with cracked ice. Add 1 measure of good dry gin, the juice of half a fresh lemon, one teaspoon of caster sugar, and chilled champagne. These days Bollinger or Veuve Clicquot are perfectly acceptable, unless you live in somewhere like Monaco. You can decorate this one well with orange, lemon or lime slices to give that real party feel.

The Bellini

Most readers of LSS will be more than familiar with Renaissance Art, and the works of Giovani Bellini in particular. We know this from our focus groups. So it may come as no surprise that this one was named after the eponymous author of such works as St Jerome in the Desert, Christ Blessing and St Francis in Ecstasy. We are a bit unsure about that last one; surely a small tipple before evensong would have been sufficient? Anyway, once St Francis had come back down he, and you, could well have enjoyed the following. Again it is from our immortal Hamlyn, which is to us what Das Kapital is to the followers of Karl Marx.

Take a large, robust wineglass. Add two measures of fresh peach juice. Add four measures of chilled champagne and a dash of grenadine. Hamlyn recommends peach slices to decorate. We say: use your imagination, it’s New Year’s Eve!

You can read the full histories and more about these cocktails below via Wikipedia. But don’t forget, Knowledge and objective learning are now in deep, deep danger. Wikipedia is one of the best guardians of truth that we have. And so we earnestly beg you to think how much you can donate to this marvellous resource. They too must survive another year: details below in the links.

French 75 (cocktail) – Wikipedia

Bellini (cocktail) – Wikipedia

Support Wikipedia – Wikimedia Foundation

The Ultimate Cocktail Book Hamlyn 2004

#french75 #bellini #champagne #newyearseve #cocktails #wikimediafoundation

Quick cocktails for Christmas morning guests

One thing about Christmas morning-it’s going to be busy. Those crucial hours between eleven o’clock and one o’clock when half the street drops in, yet you dare not forget the relatives who are staying, or the steadily building drumbeat of the Christmas Dinner preps, can be frantic. You need to entertain them, you need to shut them all up. Above all you need to do it quickly and painlessly so you can concentrate on higher matters like Yorkshire Puddings and Brandy butter.

As there will be no miracle worker present who will to turn your water in wine, here is our guide to three boozy, plus one virtuous, easy-make cocktails.. Above all they’re simple: Each requires but one or two ingredients: a little ice , the right glasses and a few eco friendly straws, and you become the perfect hostess/host. And just to make it even easier, we have stripped out all those pesky shakers, strainers and other complicated mixing equipment which will only complicate matters and generate further washing up, Our making times assume you have all the ingredients ready to go: a safe assumption, as LSS readers are known for their wise foresight.

Gin Sling (see left above) Put 4-5 ice cubes into a hurricane glass , add one measure of cherry brandy and three of gin. Stir and top up with cold sparkling water .Decorate with one cherry, add 1 straw. Estimated preparation time : 25 seconds

Champagne cocktail (see centre) To a classic champagne flute add 1 brown sugar cube and cover with one measure brandy. Add a tiny dash of angostura, and top up with champagne. Decorate with a cherry and serve. Tip: Have a tissue nearby in case the wine bubbles over Estimated preparation time : 40 seconds

Harvey Wallbanger (see right above) Put plenty of ice in a tall glass and add 1 measure of vodka. and a half measure of Galliano. Top up with fresh orange juice and stir. A slice of orange will decorate, You will need a two straws. Estimated preparation time : one minute

And our Non alcoholic for the drivers: A delicious fruit punch. We are nothing here if not responsible, and know that good people never drive with alcohol in their system. What’s more there’s almost no preparation time with this one, as you can buy/prepare most of the ingredients the day before. All you do is add 750 ml of fresh orange juice, 750 ml cranberry juice, 400 ml of pineapple juice to a large punchbowl. Keep it in the fridge for an hour or two before serving. When ready to go, add lots of ice sparkling water and slices of colourful fruits like oranges. lemons and pineapples. You can adjust the amounts to serve as many or few people as you like. We know it’s tasty, because we have experienced more than one non sober guest ask for their own serving of this stuff, just adding a little gin or vodka to get the right Christmas spirit.

We hope the day goes well.

#christmas day #holidays #parties #cocktails

Our recipes inspired by one of our most treasured possessions: The Ultimate Cocktail Book, published by Paul Hamlyn in 2003, and which we still use today!

Why taxes are good for you #4: health and safety, guvnor

Ever since our earliest youth, Budget Day in the UK has always been accompanied by a chorus of cantankerous moaning “They’re putting a penny on me beer! He’s puttin’ tuppence onner packet o’ fags!” Spurred on as ever by a less than objective nor benevolent right-wing media, this was taken as firm evidence of a creeping Communist plot, designed to strike at the very foundations of British Manhood. But they paid; then many died of cancer or other hideous diseases. For the evidence they chose to ignore was overwhelming: such taxes were good for their health. A 50% rise on tobacco tax leads to substantial declines in smoking, with all the falls in things like lung disease, cardiovascular disease and the many other ills associated with the widespread consumption of the drug nicotine. Regular readers will not be surprised to learn the same is true of alcohol taxes. The literature is vast, but we hope that the studies which we have included will give you a starting point.[1] [2] And add : will future societies discover the same truth with regard to sweet foods and drinks?

What is true for the particular turns out to true for the general. You don’t have to read this blog for long before coming across the names of Richard Wilkinson and Kate Pickett and their seminal work The Spirit Level.[3] Taxes, they admit create more equal societies. And more equal societies experience a truly amazing number of health benefits when compared to less equal ones. Obesity, childhood health, life expectancy, reductions in crime-all have been the subject of careful longitudinal and randomised studies which confirm the thesis of their book. Which advances in turn lead to more money available for better health care services, leading to less obesity, better child development……no, we’ll leave it there. You know what a virtuous cycle looks like. .Again, our references barely scrape the surface of what’s available[4] [5]. But we’ll trust you’ll do a little digging yourselves rather than take our word for all of this

Which leaves it hard to write a concluding paragraph when those conclusions are so obvious both to intelligent readers and patriots. For what can be more patriotic than to promote the health and well being of the society in which we are grounded? But. as we saw in the last blog, patriotism comes at a cash price, and you need an economy to pay for it, And in the next blog in this series we will learn that without a government and the taxes it collects, you will not have an economy at all. Don’t miss it.

[1] The Case for Health Taxes Masood Ahmed, Minouche Shafik World Health Organisation

[2] Estimating the effect of transitioning to a strength-based alcohol tax system on alcohol consumption and health outcomes: a modelling study of tax reform in England – The Lancet Public Health The Lancet

[3] Richard Wilkinson and Kate Pickett The Spirit Level Penguin 2009 updated 2024

[4]A UK wealth tax for better health | The BMJ

[5]Does income inequality cause health and social problems? Oseph Rowntree foundation

Friday Night Danger: The Long Island Iced Tea

And so, gentle readers, after five years of writing about cocktails we come to the one we have always tried to avoid. The Long Island Iced Tea. Why? Because it is so seditiously powerful, the one after which you will be incapable of anything else. Tasting your food . Engaging in serious conversation about Natural Philosophy or the Liberal Arts. Or even asking the waiter the way to the John. And believe us, once you have scanned the recipe(see below, see link) you will see why.

According to that excellent website The Cocktail Society, the Long Island Iced Tea evolved in te United States as a way to conceal the drinking of illicit hootch during Prohibition. “Make it look like Iced Tea,” was the rationale, “the Feds will never spot it for a ringer”. The Society gives a recipe, so we won’t cut across their know-how. But merely to list the ingredients from our own favourite recipe will demonstrate the potential head splitting power of this famous drink. They include 5 alcoholic ingredients; gin, vodka, white rum, tequila and Cointreau. Toppers up include ice, lemon juice and sugar syrup and above all cola, which gives it that iced tea look. And as sharper eyed readers will have already noted, there is no tea in it. Because that’s the whole point

As the Society observes , some smaller cocktails such as martinis may come with a higher alcohol content. But its the sheer volume of the LIIT which enables it to deliver such an enormous punch. And so we say: enjoy, but with caution. Do not attempt to i operate heavy machinery, drive nor attempt to make love any time after, as the results will be inevitably tragic. We had one at lunch yesterday and we are still recovering. Be glad we got this far.

[1]https://cocktail-society.com/recipes/long-island-iced-tea/